Between the 10th and 11th arrondissements, the Canal Saint-Martin runs for just over four kilometers past locks, iron footbridges and plane trees that shade its cobbled quays. Once a working-class, industrial corner of the city, it has become since the 2000s one of Parisians' favorite places to meet, whether for a quiet read on the steps or a drink on a terrace at sunset. On Sundays, when traffic gives way to pedestrians and cyclists, the atmosphere turns especially relaxed.
Passerelle Bichat
This iron latticework footbridge, one of the most photographed spots on the canal, owes some of its fame to Marcel Carné's 1938 film "Hôtel du Nord," shot just steps away and still part of Parisians' collective memory. It links Quai de Valmy to Quai de Jemmapes and offers an open view down the row of plane trees.
Passerelle Emmanuelle-Riva
A little further north, near Square des Récollets, this other iron footbridge has carried the name of actress Emmanuelle Riva since 2018. It's a good vantage point for watching the joggers, cyclists and strollers who line the water all day long.
The Récollets locks
The canal has several locks that make up for the difference in level between the Bassin de l'Arsenal and the Bassin de la Villette. Take a few minutes to watch a barge rise or drop between the gates, a simple sight that still fascinates children and adults alike.
The quays, for strolling and lingering
Lined with trees and dotted with public benches, Quai de Valmy and Quai de Jemmapes invite both a stroll and a pause. This is where many Parisians simply come to sit with a book, with no other goal than enjoying the slow-moving water.
A picnic by the water
As soon as the weather turns, the steps along the quays fill with blankets and improvised picnic baskets. Pick up something to eat at a local grocery or bakery and settle in beside a lock, especially pleasant in the early evening when the light skims the water.
Independent shops and neighborhood cafés
Over the years, Quai de Valmy and Quai de Jemmapes have filled with designer boutiques, specialty bookshops and carefully decorated cafés that gave the neighborhood its "bobo" reputation. It's also a good place to find a vintage shop or a small gallery away from the big chains.
Tips
To reach the canal, the Jacques Bonsergent (line 5), République (lines 3, 5, 8, 9 and 11) and Goncourt (line 11) metro stations are all a short walk from the quays. Aim for a Sunday morning visit, when Quai de Valmy and Quai de Jemmapes are closed to car traffic, to enjoy the area fully on foot or by bike. Heading north, the canal opens onto the Bassin de la Villette, a wider stretch of water lined with cinemas and open-air cafés, before continuing on to Parc de la Villette. It's a natural extension of the walk for anyone with a little more time, especially in the late afternoon when the terraces fill up.
